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Internet speed

Moving Router

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3: Seeker

Vodafone suggest moving the Hub. Does this require an extension to the cable (Ethernet) and power source?

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8 REPLIES 8
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4: Newbie

Hi

It could do.

OR BT n5 socket.png

 

What I have is a pair of wires going into A & B, and theoretically they can be routed / connected thru to another Master instead. Using TWISTED pair cable, not cheap parallel,

 

However your OP is a little light on details, like the type of broadband you have and how far/near to another socket etc etc.

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4: Newbie

Almost certainly.  Is it  phone line or fibre?

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16: Advanced member

Clint, if you've JUST got your wires going into the A&B connectors and then using a filtered faceplate or filter at every extension (used or not), that's the correct way to do it!  The Dave Fry does page shows an incorrect way (5+3+2 & A+B), which could potentially be slower.

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4: Newbie

Hi

I am never wrong, but sometimes maybe different.

 

How different am I ????????

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Wires on A, B, 2 (3 is the ringer, can cause issues on broadband) and 5 on the current socket go to the same places on the NTE5c.

To connect the incoming line place the clean un-stripped cables in the A and B connectors as shown, making sure the cables pass through both holes and go right to the back of the cam-lock IDC connector.

These will be the same TWO wires you removed from A and B on your current socket.

2 = Blue / White bands (3 = Orange / White bands Don’t connect for best internet speeds). 5 = White / Blue bands

Making sure the wires stay in place, now close the cam-lock IDC fully. If you need to open this cam-lock for any reason you need to cut off the used bit of cable then follow the above again. Never re-use the same section of wire in any IDC connector.

On the newer MK2 version of the NTE5c, they now have clear cam-locks so you can see that the cables are correctly placed.

 

###############

 

I have an assortment of wires, from BT (OR), NTL, VM and god knows how many cable companies. 

Reality is the original wiring was GPO back in the mid 70's.

Currently I have A and B connected in a NTE5 and that is all, then it is out to a splitter/filter. 

I am contemplating how to splice in the old wiring, and actually do I need any of it.

 

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Moderator

Hi @PaintedWolves if you're moving your router to a location that your current wires don't reach, you'll look into purchasing longer wires, but if you can move it to a location with the reach of your current wires, this should be an issue. Could you provide a little more information about why we've advised that you move your router please?

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16: Advanced member

The common reason people want to move the router is that in many old houses the Master Socket is located just inside the front door - it's where people used to put a phone table, and is just about the worst place for a device handling a WiFi network.  With the telephone stand a thing of the past it gets worse, and you'll often find the modem router on the floor, or even INSIDE a cupboard, shoe cabinet, or set atop a radiator!

 

*I could go on for hours about this, but for the sake of not boring others to death, I'll leave it there!

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3: Seeker

Jack, all, thanks for the responses.

The entrance point for the Line is buy the existing telephone downstairs but far from the office. It's a phone line ASDL but I'm assured it's high speed because the line to the junction in the road is Fibre. It's an old BT line, probably 10 years old. There's not enough cable to put the router in the centre of the house, where I'd like it, so it can serve all areas. 

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Moderator

Okay @PaintedWolves, thanks for clarifying. It might be worth looking into Wi-fi signal boosters if you're unable to move your router to a more suitable location. I've linked a list of recommended boosters here    

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