No Internet from extension phone socket

[AJDJ]

Hi,

The previous owner of the flat had an extension cable running along the walls, so I decided to make it neat and conceal it into the wall. I cut off the old extension, got cat6 cable and MK slave phone socket, connected blue/white to 2, orange to 3 and white/blue to 5 on both ends, but when I plug my router into that extension socket it complains that it is not connected. I use the provided ADSL filter to plug it into both master and slave sockets. I have tried not connecting orange wire at all, but no success. I have also tried a piece of cable that remained after I cut off the previous extension but with no avail.

Can it be a faulty extension socket or I am doing something wrong? I think master socket should be fine as the old extension used to work.

 

[MarkWeinreb]

@AJDJ 

While we wait for four images to be cleared, let’s see if I understand. You’ve connected one end of  a cat6 (ethernet) cable to a phone socket and the other end to a pc (or similar). Is that right? If so, it’ll never work. Instead of connecting to the master socket, the cat6 cable needs to be connected to the router. Missed the bit in your post about the router. However, I still don’t thing cat 6 is the correct cable.  You need a cable with RJ11 (phone) connectors plugged into the master socket data port.

[Jayach · Accepted solution]

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@MarkWeinreb wrote:

While we wait for four images to be cleared, let’s see if I understand. You’ve connected one end of  a cat6 (ethernet) cable to a phone socket and the other end to a pc (or similar). Is that right? If so, it’ll never work. Instead of connecting to the master socket, the cat6 cable needs to be connected to the router. Missed the bit in your post about the router. However, I still don’t thing cat 6 is the correct cable.  You need a cable with RJ11 (phone) connectors plugged into the master socket data port.

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Sorry @MarkWeinreb , what the OP is trying to do is perfectly acceptable and should work fine.

Would I have used a Cat6 cable no, but as long as they use just one twisted pair from it, it should be O.K.

They are using the blue/white-blue pair so no problem.

@AJDJ 

If it is not syncing with the cabinet, I can only surmise you have got a poor connection on one of the cables. As you are using pushdown connectors, that is where I would suspect the problem to be, especially if you were not using the correct tool. (Although is that a handle of a krone tool I see in one picture)

All you should be attempting to achieve is to extend the incoming pair of wires to the extension socket.

You should really be taking the extension wires from the back of the face plate, so that when the face place is removed the extension(s) are isolated from the line. Oops that was for the earlier 5A.

For 5C see this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WE42ijT25l4

[CrimsonLiar]

*edited!

The back side of the Master Socket is fine.  On the front, all you need to connect are pins 2 & 5 and these should go to pins 2 and 5 on the extension.  Which after enlarging the image looks good.

Pin 3 is the "ringer" line.  It used to be that you would also daisy chain pin 3 to all sockets, but if it works without it, then it's a means to potentially reduce noise by omitting pin 3.

*Using ethernet cable rather than phone cable does introduce the possibility that the lines without connections will work as antennas and so boost interference (as would unearthed shielding).  There may also be the issue that the conductor size of the cable may be a slightly different size - I believe you want around 0.5mmsq cross section.

**Ideally you'd not be connecting a xDSL modem/router to anything other than directly to the master socket as it can reduce signal strength (not usually significantly).  It does help if you can ensure that the cable to the extension is not running close and parallel to any other cables or even copper piping in the wall.

[AJDJ]

@MarkWeinreb no, as the others suggested I was trying to install an extension socket and connect it to the master socket, so that I could plug in my router into that extension socket in a different room.

@Jayach thank you for the link! I watched it until the very end and there it was, the 'son of a *****!' moment. All that time I was testing my connection with the faceplate removed as I didn't realize it is supposed to act as a bridge enabling the extension port! See from 17m20s https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WE42ijT25l4&t=17m20s Indeed there is a krone tool in one of my pictures, so turns out I was doing everything right besides leaving the faceplate on the floor!!

@CrimsonLiar is it ok to use Cat6 or you'd recommend cw1308 or something else? The extension socket is going to be 10m apart from the master socket. Wife just doesn't like all those cables hanging near the windowsill, so I thought at least I try to get the best cable possible to reduce the risk of making the connection worse.

[CrimsonLiar]

The conductor cross-section of cw1308 is twice that of "the requirements" for Cat6 ethernet cable.  Cat6 cable should work - just - based on the tolerances that are supposed to be there.

If you have a multi-meter it should be possible to test and wiggle quite easily!  Better still is a network cable tester with BT-plug to RJ11 adapters.

[AJDJ]

@CrimsonLiar I've got a multi-meter but can you please elaborate what I need to be testing for? I'm not that skilled at electrical DIY yet 😀

[Jayach]

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@AJDJ wrote:

@Jayach thank you for the link! I watched it until the very end and there it was, the 'son of a *****!' moment. All that time I was testing my connection with the faceplate removed as I didn't realize it is supposed to act as a bridge enabling the extension port! See from 17m20s

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I thought of asking if you had put the face plate back on while testing but thought it too obvious.

The reason it disconnects the extensions is so, when using the test socket, the possibility of problems caused by the extension wiring is eliminated.

I would probably have used Cat5e had I been doing it, but that's because I have lots of it. Cat6 should be fine, as it is still twisted pair. I really consider Cat6 overkill for home use.

[Ripshod]

CAT6 is essentially just CAT5 with a tighter twist and a soft insert to keep the pairs apart. So long as you have a good connection you'll be fine. 

[CrimsonLiar]

All you'd be testing for is continuity!  If you've a meter and it doesn't have a dedicated beeper, just test for resistance at the ends using the pins in the diasy-chained sockets.  As there are no components in line the resistance should be almost nothing if you get no connection across the pins 2 to 2 and 5 to 5 then the connectors in the sockets aren't biting into the core of the wires!